Welcome to the Daisy community and thanks for the interest in my pedal design. I almost always have some of these in stock since every iteration I make on the design I have to order minimally 5 from JCLPCB. When I have extras I’m willing to pass them along to anyone that’s interested basically at cost plus shipping. I usually only sell the fully built pedal (so that I can actually make sure the PCB works), but if you just want a PCB I can do that too. Just DM me and we can work out the details have 5 of the latest iteration in stock now.
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Hey Keith, first of all let me say - wonderful design! Very neat.
Now, given the heat the daisy seed module throws off, have you run in to any heat issues when running the seed inside the 125b enclosure? I was considering using some heatsink tape to buffer the surfaces of the ics to the case.
I havent built one yet, but by my napkin calculations, it seems theres around a 10mm gap between the ICs and the bottom cover.
Once i finish my unit, i’ll see if its possible, even if i have to add some aluminum blocks to bring the distance down a bit.
thoughts?
J
I have not run into any heat issues, but this is a hobby for me and I’m definitely not a pro. I’ve tested leaving it on overnight and it still worked the next morning, so that was good enough for me 
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Hi. New to this forum and to Daisy seed. Just ordered my first board.
I was inspired by the incredible work you are making with the 1590B multi-effect pedal and had some ideas I wanted to share before starting to design and prototype.
I want to squeeze 5 EC11 encoders (instead of pots) , 0.96 display with a control encoder, two 3pdt switches (one for true bypass) , power jack and the DaisySeed (of course…) to the 1590B PCB.
The 5 control encoders (360 rotation) make more sense to me, since if they control different effects they must be arbitrarily positioned (except maybe for a master volume pot)
I also have another idea to use a small ESP-01 to handle WiFi connection for external control, wireless midi, and maybe Bluetooth audio stream-in (like for play along). ESP wiil be located under the OLED opening so wireless transmission won’t be blocked (hopefully). I have an initial placement for the big components, hoping I can fit the SMD parts in between. 2-4 layers PCB will be enough. DC and IO levels may be an issue, as well as ground noise from Daisy, ESP.
I also had a thought about using the Stereo input jack to connect two guitars to the effect (with external adapter) and process them independently.
What do you think? possible?
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Another issue is the selection of input/output buffer. I understand it is a design from ES but why not just use a more traditional bias scheme with a voltage divider and a shunt capacitor creating a virtual ground reducing the noise from the supply? Unless some components draw current from this 2.5V.
I also think the input buffer should have some kind of trimmable gain to bring the guitar pickup signal closer to the full range of the ADC (0.6xVCC for the PCM3060 → 3Vpp). Noise is also amplified (but shaped) so there is an SNR tradeoff there…
EDIT: The 5V is used only for the buffer OpAmps? I don’t see it powering anything else.
I like the 5 encoders idea. This way you also get five buttons for free
Regarding the WiFi transmission, also a great idea, but if you use a standard aluminum enclosure, it is basically a Faraday cage. I doubt you’d be able to transmit or receive anything, unless the antenna is external.
Thanks.
Totally forgot about the encoder switches…
The ESP will be right under the OLED, hopefully something will be able to pass through the OLED print and opening. It will be only short distance. I will try to think of an option for an external antenna.
This is the general concept.
the height difference between the 3pdt switches, encoders and OLED are tricky. I may have to put the foot switches outside the PCB.
Daisy and all SMD devices are on the bottom side for easy JLCPCB fabrication.
I love the idea, but it won’t fit in a 1590B unless the Daisy and all components are on the same side of the PCB.
OK. I tried to have the 3d models as accurate as I can. I can see an issue with the 3pdt switches and encoders height differences but I think if the DAISY and SMDs are on the bottom side it should work with some creative soldering and without the original pin headers. the daisy is only 6.6mm without the side headers. Another option is to use only 3 encoders and put the Daisy on top. Anyway, I won’t manufacture it before I get the actual Daisy and try a placement check.
Tried to add another FSW for looping control (too much?)
and with the enclosure in the EasyEDA tool (not all holes drilled yet)
I may use the encoders without the nut but I don’t know if they will survive the push switch action when they are only soldered floating to the board.
Can you comment about the two input concept? Is the Daisy capable of handling dual channel audio proceesing?
With the 1590B enclosure you have about ~22mm of height to work with to be able to get the lid on the bottom. Maybe, slightly more.
Don’t forget the Daisy has components on the side with the headers too. It’s a dual sided board. If I measure the Daisy from the top of the JTAG header on the top (the highest point on the top) to the tallest component on the bottom I get about 9.5mm. Let’s assume the board is 1.5mm and the tallest components are likely the audio jacks (if you use neutriks, ~16mm) or foot switches which might be 13mm or so minimally. You’ll be over that 22mm by a few mm.
It may be possible with really careful component selection, but it’s going to be darn close. My 1590b just barely fits vertically with everything on one side.
Oh, and yes, you could definitely run different effects in parallel on the seed, one on the left audio channel, one on the right.
Sound accurate
This is what I have now:
3mm is due to the USB connector. What would you say is the component height on the bottom side (no headers)?
So ordering an unsoldered board and unsoldering the JTAG header I think I can drop the Daisy down to 3mm (connector) + 1.5mm (board) + 1.5mm (bottom side components). Roughly 6mm. Add the PCB (1.5mm) and the audio jacks (16mm) and we are at 24mm which is slightly shorter then the spec for 1590B (25mm) without the lid. I may have to go for an acrylic lid due to the WiFi transmission so I will make a taller lid. I can opt for a bigger enclosure… will see after I get the Daisy. Fun project!
Another option with a rough 3D model I made for Daisy: soldering the header from the top. and obvioulsy moving the jacks, or cutting the headers after soldering. but I think height would be OK.
Hi everyone! I’ve built one of the 1590b thru-hole pedals, but I’m having trouble flashing to the daisy. I’ve run “make clean && make && make program-dfu” but i get this error:
In file included from guitar_pedal.cpp:11:
Effect-Modules/reverb_module.h:29:5: error: ‘ReverbSc’ does not name a type
29 | ReverbSc *m_reverbStereo;
| ^~~~~~~~
I’m very new to all this so struggling a bit, does anyone know what might be causing this?
Add the following line to the Makefile:
USE_DAISYSP_LGPL=1
Location in the file doesn’t matter, except it must be before the line which include’s the system Makefile.
This is required by a fairly recent change which helps with opensource software license compliance.
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That’s perfect, got it up and running thank you! Another very beginner question, apologies, but how do I switch between different effects on the single footswitch 1590b model?
Unfortunately, there isn’t an easy way. The only way currently on the 1590B model since it doesn’t have a screen is to send it Midi PC messages to switch between the built in effects. If you want to just change the default effect loaded, you can simply change the active effect to be the ID of the one you want in the main guitar_pedal.cpp file. I’ve been meaning to improve this and to perhaps have the ability to map changing an effect to one of the knobs, but I haven’t gotten around to it, since I do most of my tinkering on the 125B model which has the handy screen.
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I am wondering how sandwiching the Daisy between two PCBs will work from heat dissipation perspective.
Well, took on the notes from @kshep and made some adjustments. Eventually it is starting to look like a ZOOM MS100BT…
I want to use a bigger screen - 1.54" color LCD. I wish I could find one with touch control…
3 encoders are enough, since it allows me to use the bigger screen so less controls are needed. moved the Daisy to the top side and added the ESP and LCD right above it.
Also added a headphone jack and headphone amp so this can be used as a stand alone practice multi-effect.
Daisy and other hardware should be here next week, I’ll make some dry runs and and send it to JLC.
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Looks very cool! More likely to fit too. Keep us posted on your progress. Also, you probably don’t need to use the 3PDT switches for the foot switches. Since they are just connected to a GPIO, you can use a momentary SPDT switch.
Thanks…
I have spare 3pdt’s I want to use and the momentary spdt switches are not much smaller anyway.
I got the Daisy and tried the basic examples. very cool!
I attached the schematic design so far (ignore mistakes and incomplete wiring)
- Input buffer based on the TL072 or equivalent low noise opamp
- true bypass based on analog switches TS5A23157RSER (or relays)
- ESP32 C3 zero was the smallest ESP32 I could find
- 1.54 SPI LCD
- EC11 encoders with switches
- Individual AMS1117 5V LDOs for the Daisy, ESP and Audio Amps
- Expression pedal input jack
- TPA6111 amp for output and headphones (large drive, internal vref and shutdown option)
- Aux cable input.
Basically the signal flow is: input signal–> buffer → daisy in → process → daisy out–> mix aux and bluetooth → headphones amp → output amp → output jack
when headphone are connected the output amp can be shutdown.
Another thought is to let the ESP handle the controls and display, and connect with I2C to the Daisy. This just to reduce load and interrupts on the Daisy.
Its going to be tight
SCH_Schematic2_16_2024-04-21.pdf (509.1 KB)
As for my wishful Bluetooth out stream, it seems that low latency Bluetooth stream is a big issue, and is certainly out of the question for the ESP. I would be happy if anyone has a different experience.
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